Thursday, May 7, 2009

Back in the UK

well i made it back..
What more can i say. its nice to see family and friends again. but so much has changed.

I drive around the streets and am seeing new building and road all the time.

My family has changed, my frinds have changed also. the have new jobs, more responsibilities, many have children. it all feels a little peculier. like iv come back but into a different dimention. where everything is just a bit different.

I have the lyrics from radiohead creep dancing through my head. "But Im a creep, Im a weirdo. What the hell am I doing here? I dont belong here."

I think it will just take time to adjust. after all its been 19 months or more and i have exsperienced so much in that time that has changed me i guess i just need to reajust. like getting comfy in a favorite seat after somone else has sat in it.. or putting on an old coat thats been hung up for a long time.. you know how it should be and feel but it just dosn't fit right at first.. it needs a bit of wearing in again.

well i need to find a job ASAP and work out a few things but so far its been nice to be back. to have a home again.. even if its not my own...

Wednesday, April 29, 2009

Araps Wow

Well what a way to spend my last few weeks of travelling.

This wonderful hulk of monolithic quartzite rock was spectacular. The last three weeks were great fun. I arrived at the pines camp ground, araps, mid afternoon on the 3rd of April, the wind was blowing but then I was to learn that the pines is always the windiest place to stay here, once 50 meters outside the shelter of these parasite ridden and dying pines the heat of the sun hits you. The rock is like a cross between granite and sandstone and placing gear is always fairly easy despite what the guidebook may say with regard to a few of the routes.

I was fortunate to meet many great people to climb with whilst in residency at the camp ground.
Banjo and Carrie, a young couple from Tasmania who had not been climbing very long were good fun to climb with as their friend Alec who later joined them over the Easter week,

Kumpy an American of Asian decent was really entertaining. having climbed for about as long as myself he has likewise acquired many anecdotes and met many people along his travels, and I have memories of him sat eating broccoli or pack choy for lunch and playing his ocarina which is a little whistle like musical instrument, and we subjected the camp site to renditions of happy birthday, Twinkle twinkle little star, a few nursery rhymes and ode to joy. Which used to come echoing out of the afternoon shade from the recess of some gully and probably drove people insane as we only knew the first 20 bars or so.

I later met another American by the name of Andrew, we were climbing in china around the same time and he knew Kumpy from his time in China also. There was also Parish from Melbourne. Matt a walking guidebook to araps was most helpful and I spent a fair amount of time picking his mind for good routes. A couple of Kiwis and many other who I met and climbed with. Gustav who liked anything involving crack climbing and Massa who's love of the crazy Asian card game was only second to that of his love for climbing.

It was a bit like 6 degrees of separation where everyone could be linked to everyone else stopping there. The atmosphere was great to be around and with having 3 weeks a laid back approach to climbing ensued. Basically getting up before 8am was uncommon. But normally breakfast was eaten, toilet ablutions attended to and climbing commenced around 10ish. I will have to read through a copy of the guidebook to recall al the routes I climbed but a few that stand out in my mind are, King Rat, Tannin, Astral Plane, Muldoon, Missing Link, Sphinx, Blue Hawaii, Running on empty, Claw, Jesus built my hotrod, A taste of Honey, Hertz. I even had a good play on have a nice flight but unfortunately couldn't get it clean, which Is a shame because its a great line which should be within my ability but for the lul in climbing and my body becoming out of shape.

Many of the poorer climbers or thoses who just had a phobia of spending money would go and check the supermarket bins when in town to see what delights had been thrown out. To my utter surprise such things as Brie which was still well in date and fresh fruit and veg were bread and milk which pursueded myself and Kumpy to make a point of checking out the bins whenever in town.
I even got myself an Easter bunny and Easter egg, along with many other items to supplement my shopping budget which just meant I spent the saved money on some beer.

Climbing every day on such rough rock cut my fingers to shreds and I should probably have taken more than a couple rest days but it was hard not to climb.

I arrived back in Melbourne on Friday after securing a lift with Francesca, a regular at the pines who was happy enough to save me the $30 bus fare. I will no doubt make it back this way at some point in the future but for now my travelling days need to take a back seat until I can earn enough money to go to all the places I heard about whilst trotting around for the past 20 months.

It will be strange to go back to a regular job but im sure I will manage for a short time until the joy of travelling calls me once again.

I didn't take many photos but a selection will end up on my flickr account.

Tuesday, April 14, 2009

Araps

Well im in araps. have been here from the 3rd of April and today is my first proper rest day. Have climbed lots, made some new friends.. bumped ibnto a couple of old ones.

Starting to smell a bit now so time for a shower and a spot of shopping.

Will update this with a some of the routes and add some photos to Flikcr by the end of the month. 10 more days until i head back to melbourne.. best make them count.. perhapse a few more grade 21's and with luck a few 22's.. may even get the 25 i'v been working but i doubt it.. feels super hard so i must still be weak from good living and eating in melbourne.

Later folkes.. Will be back in the UK by May.

Thursday, March 26, 2009

Tasmania

Well I made it to Tasmania and back in one piece

A friend of mine Jose was going out there to meet some friends and do some climbing so after checking the cheap Jet Star flights a plan was made and we ended up flying to Tasmania on Saturday the 14th march..

After arriving and checking into the hostel which had been previously booked on-line we discovered than no record of the reservation had been received.. So I ended up sleeping on the Sofa which would have been fine apart from the rowdy drunken group who were half cut when we arrived at about 22:30.

After Jose checked in we headed for Pizza and I decided to stop out for a few drinks to give the noisy people in the hostel a chance to quieten down as I was sleeping in the communal lounge which had been fairly busy when we went out..

I arrived back shortly about 12:45 to find out that the group had made no attempts to quieten down and were being ejected from the hostel. I was also informed of the car which had been burnt out in the hostel car park and decided that a peaceful nights sleep was out of the question.

I awoke about 8:45 the next morning.. Jose had gone to locate his friend from the US Gabe who is studying in Australia so I unfolded myself from the sofa and we all met up and went for breakfast which was nice but exceptionally overpriced but gave us a chance to chat and formulate some form of plan.


We met up with some fellow climbers and travellers and got the local take on where would be best to head... it didn't look good and the rain appeared to be moving in but our time here was limited and we wanted to make the most of it.. we jumped into the hire car and headed out towards Freycinet, a small peninsular on the east coast which is mostly national park.

On the way we stopped at Anaconda (the big Australian outdoor store) in the hope of finding the climbing guide as all efforts had failed due to shops not opening on a Sunday, we also looked at the chances of obtaining some camping equipment.. Whilst we couldn't hire any form the store one of the employees, Drew with a pink mohawk said he could lend us a tent.. winner...

So with our recently acquired climbing guide and camping kit we headed of to Freycinet, however as the first night was raining we decided to stop at the hostel on the camp site which also proved to be useful as we were able to liberate a number of cooking utensils which were to come in most useful.

The first day in Freycinet we went for the tourist walk up and over to wineglass bay then back through the bush to the other side of the peninsular and around to the car park.. the sun came out by the time we started and we enjoyed wonderful weather and views and resolved to go climbing the next day.

We camped that night on the beach and the wind picked up and it rained but the tent held and the grey morning invited us to change our plan but we knew the weather was blowing through and it would clear so we packed up and spent the next 4 hrs. trying to find the Crag which was only 1.5hrs walk in.. however due to unmarked paths a guide book written by someone who cant tell the difference between feet and meters and a hillside full of cairns leading in every direction but the one we wanted it turned into a hike to the top of Mt Amos which overlooks the hazards range and down to wineglass bay and the circuit we had walked the previous day..

After our failure at climbing on what we would have liked to be a climbing trip we ran to Launceston and spend a few days at the sports climbing venue of Hillwood a short 45 minute drive away. This proved to be just what was in order however there were serious doubts about the solidness of the rock but a few classic lines were sent and we had a great time before we left for the delights of Cradle mountain. Perhaps the must see area in Tasmania. The drive along the winding road took us past a small town called Sheffield so I stopped for a photo or two and we went past Mt Roland with a great 350meter easy climb up the shoulder which promised to be a great adventure for the willing.. however due to the state and condition of various ankles a bit of inexperience and lack of helmets on we opted to spend the next day walking the start of the Overland trail up to Cradle mountain.

We could not have picked a better day. It is said that the summit of this peak is in cloud for over 320 days per year and we didn't see a cloud all day. The peat bogs and moorland plateau that runs south through three national parks is stunning and the vista provided from the summit was fantastic. This day was the highlight of the trip so far and made any disappointment about the decision no to do the multi pitch on Mt Roland rapidly dissolve.

The 5 or 6hr walk was completed and we stopped of at the camp ground to cook dinner before a long drive through the evening back to Hobart where we were offer accommodation in a house of climbers.

The next morning we raced of to the Tasman Peninsular to take a look at the Famous Totem Pole. Which is a great finger of rock although dwarfed by the candle stick that sits next to it, its steeped in climbing infamy.

We were also greeted by the view of a huge pod of dolphins over 50 strong swimming around the coastal waters and playing, I assume they were in pursuit of a school of fish but it made the walk and the experience all the more rewarding when looking down from the cliffs to the clear ocean with such a scene laid out before us.

After camping the night and cursing all the possums that tried to creep up on us as we made out meal we left for Hobart and the flight back to our respective homes.. Iv now done my washing an am packing some things to send home before my last trip.. this one to Mt Arapiles where I hope to get some climbing done before my return to the UK.

photos are also now on flickr..

Saturday, February 14, 2009

Mind dump... am i old???

Well life's not bad..
Yep its had a few let downs.. and sometimes everything has felt like it was an uphill struggle when even keeping afloat seemed questionable but the tide appears to have changed,
as I ponder this un-original and lazy metaphor it's perhaps not life that has changed but more my interpretation of it that has undergone the transformation..
At very near the age of 30 I found myself thinking about what my life's amounted to. It would be easy to say not a lot. Financial I'm worse of now than I was 2 or 3 years ago and I have no job, again.
however the thought of this doesn't bother me like it would have done a few years back, and my life is not measured by financial rewards or goals, it measured in moments. Perfect memories of locations, times, friends, emotions, activities all intertwined and mapped out in the neurons of my brain.
The past 18months has been an adventure which I feel will mould the rest of my life.. and each experience in my life leading up to and including the past 18 months has played its part in my arriving at this point, this time, and this place in the state I am.
I've been aware that I'm getting older and that my ideals have adjusted and been constantly updated as new experiences and challenges have appeared, therefore my interpretation of my life and the experiences I desire have moved and changed accordingly. This is nothing new and is standard practice but it usually just happens on autopilot. Its rare to actually sit down and think about these things, and in doing so its nice to reflect on my life so far.
Whilst I'm not poor I'm definitely very far from being rich. I have a house.. well most of one. I have no major costs, I have my health.. my body still works the way it should do.. although it's a long time since reading the instruction manual but everything appears to be in working order. Arms, legs, fingers all bend in the right directions. Brain gets a bit cloudy from time to time but clears up after a cuppa tea. I have good friends who I have made along the way, and a few I have lost.
So despite almost being 30 I'm optimistic about the future, Enthusiastic about the places and the adventures I've have had so far, Energetic with excitement about the adventures I still want and know I will have, but most of all happy that I'm living my life honestly and happily and I have someone I love.

Tuesday, February 10, 2009

St Kilda Festival

Well i'm still looking for another job and hope to get one soon. In the meentime i'v had a chance to get to know Melbourne a little better.
As its summer the festival season is upon us and I spent Sunday at the St Kilda festival.. It runs for a week but the Sunday is by far the main event. It has a bit of everything. Music on 4 stages from Latin and Samba through to Metal and Rock with just about everthing in between.
Some were good and some I wish I had brought along the ear plugs for.
Also on show were the talents of some Freestyle BMX riders. A bit of a Bike trail demo, Kite boarding which it must be said looks so much fun.. (shame it costs so bloody much to get out and learn it. ) some graffiti artists and of cause it wouldn't be right to be this close to the sand and not have some beach volleyball. These are just the few things I got to see and have uploaded a stack of pics to my flickr site..
After the heatwave it was nice to have a cool and overcast day so I didn't add to the sunburn which im hoping will develope into a tan rather than peeling skin making it look like I have leprosy.
The day was great fun and It wouldn't be a trip to St Kilda without a stopoff at one of the many cake shops on Acland St for some much needed sweet food. Shame I like food so much as i'm sure its restricting my climbing..
the highlights of the day for me were watching the BMX freestlye the kiteboarding and Dan Sultan and his band. Plus some of the cool street performers.
I'm disaponted that I missed the Barisilian Samba and the Capoeria show but it was impossible to see everything.
I hope you enjoy the photos..

Saturday, February 7, 2009

Climbing hopes gone..

Well after training indoors on the plastic I finally got to feed the rat as it was..

I hired a car got hold of some gear and Jose and me headed to the Grampians..
We were psyched for some proper climbing.. we had a full rack some hangers. Two ropes.

It was hot. Its been a heatwave but after China we were sure we could cope with the heat and find somewhare in the shade to climb..

We arrived in the Grampians on wednesday night and got to Mt Stapylton campsite where we had been advised their were some good areas with quality sports and trad routes so we could ease back into being on the sharp end again..

It was still baking as the sun was setting and while pitching the tent and sorting out gear we got a bit of information from a few other climbers at the site before scouting out the path to our chosen crag..Sentinel Cave.
The topo looked awsome. It painted a picture of steep overhung jug pulling on solid sandstone and friendly bolts.. non of this having to place hangers then draws.. we were in for a real treat..

The next day after an early breakfast we set off to the chorus of a low buzzing...
the sound got louder as the 15-20 minute walk in continued and reached fever pich as we passed / climbed over a wasps nest on route to the crag... still not deterred and happy to find the crag in the morning shade we put down our sacks and started to stare in wonder at the routes..

Then it all went wrong.. a swarm of flys decended upon us and the relentless onslagught of these pestilent creatures drove us insane.. we used every trick at our disposal.. even the breeze did nothing to restrain them and killing them by the dozen's made no impact on the overwhelming numbers of our tenacious foe.

With no options remaining we fled to the car, packed up and retreated to Arapiles but to our dismay this was subject to the full force of the sun and the flys were still in defense of the crag repelling all would be suitors of these magnificent and stunning walls of now polished rock.

Why no mention of this fiendish foe was fortold or advised in the guide we can only guess.. but its just not cricket.

After our failure on rock we salvaged what we could and ran to the cost in search of waves and salvation from the days woes. Despite not finding the free campsite we sorted suitable accomodation and food, and enjoyed a session of surfing on friday morning before a drive back to Melbourn and a 3.5hr session of climbing at cliffhanger, the indoor wall.

My arms are spent. I'm sun burnt again.. and I still have no job.. but the idea of becoming a surf bum is formulating in the back of my mind.. at least until it becomes cold enough to drive the defending flys away, so as battle can be done upon the rock of Victoria..

Wednesday, January 28, 2009

Year of the Ox

Well we are no into the year of the Ox.

I have settled into a form of normality and am just coming to the end of two months work with PWC. Hopefully I find another contract soon so as I’m not out of work too long and can try to save some money..

I went away over the weekend 24-25 Jan. no not to the rock but to the beach for a spot of surfing which was refreshing and enjoyable given the recent heat, and with the mercury hovering around 40 degrees of late it promises to make this coming weekend a sizzler as well.

Unfortunately Maria.. (the friend who I went surfing with) ended up falling over and making a mess of her self so the weekend was cut short a bit and a return to work following the bank holiday Monday has been welcomed due to the wonderful delights of air con…

I have also bumped into someone who I knew when back in china.. Jose Molina who has access to a car so with luck I can start to get out on the rock and see just how weak I have become after two months of work... although I hope the frequent trips to the climbing wall and cycling around has prevented a total deterioration.

I have also booked my flights back to the UK.. I have a ticket getting me into Manchester on the 28th of April so now I just need a couple more month of work to keep the coffers from running dry and enable me to enjoy life in the sun before my return to the UK.

Will see you all in the summer.